What is salicylic acid and what benefits does it have for the skin?

Ce este acidul salicilic și ce beneficii are pentru ten

Salicylic acid is a frequently used ingredient in skincare products. It is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) used primarily in the treatment of acne, as it has exfoliating properties to remove dead skin cells, thus unclogging pores, but it is also anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.

Salicylic acid is naturally found in willow bark and birch bark, but synthetic versions of this ingredient are also used in skincare products.

Many face washes and cleansers, as well as numerous acne treatment products, contain salicylic acid in various concentrations. However, salicylic acid is also available in prescription-only formulas.

In this article, we will thoroughly explore everything you need to know about salicylic acid: what salicylic acid is, the properties that differentiate it from other acids used in dermatology, its multiple skin benefits – from deep pore cleansing to psoriasis treatment, as well as optimal usage methods and potential side effects.

Table of Contents

Salicylic acid

What is salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid has been used to treat various skin conditions for over 2,000 years. Salicylic acid's ability to exfoliate the stratum corneum (the outer layer of the epidermis, which protects the body against external aggressors) makes it a good peeling agent.

Salicylic acid, also known as ortho-hydroxybenzoic acid, belongs to a class of ingredients called salicylates. Salicylic acid is primarily used in the preparation of aspirin and other pharmaceutical products.

When it comes to skincare products, there are two classes of acids used in dermatological treatments: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) – a category that includes salicylic acid.

In beta-hydroxy acids, the hydroxy part of the molecule is separated from the acid part by two carbon atoms, unlike alpha-hydroxy acids, where the hydroxy part is separated by one carbon atom. This structure is important because it makes salicylic acid oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate the skin's pores.

Both beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) exfoliate the skin, but the former are oil-soluble, while the latter are water-soluble.

Generally, oil-soluble ingredients penetrate more easily through the lipid layers between skin cells.

Salicylic acid works best for treating mild forms of acne (typically manifested by the appearance of a few comedones) and helps prevent future acne breakouts.

Salicylic acid for face

Properties of salicylic acid

When pilosebaceous units (hair follicles and accompanying sebaceous glands) are blocked by dead skin cells and sebum (oil), open comedones (blackheads), closed comedones (whiteheads), and pustules (purulent vesicles) appear.

Salicylic acid has several properties that help treat acne and prevent breakouts.

  • Salicylic acid is a comedolytic ingredient — meaning it "disconnects" dead skin cells and accumulated oils in the pores, thereby reducing the risk of comedone formation.
  • Salicylic acid is a desmolytic ingredient — meaning it has the ability to exfoliate skin cells by disrupting intercellular connections.

In low concentrations, salicylic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin. It can take up to six weeks for the effects of salicylic acid on the skin to become visible.

In higher concentrations, salicylic acid is used as a peeling agent for the treatment of:

Salicylic acid for skin

Benefits of salicylic acid for the skin

Due to its beneficial properties for the human body, salicylic acid is used to treat a wide range of skin conditions, in addition to acne, being useful for alleviating the symptoms of skin problems such as warts, dandruff, and psoriasis.

Below, we present some of the benefits of salicylic acid for the skin:

1. Removes excess sebum from pores

Many of the ingredients used to treat acne manage to remove dead cells and sebum from the top of the pores. In contrast, salicylic acid provides a deep cleanse and, at the same time, prevents sebocytes (cells that dissolve and release the skin's natural oil into the sebaceous glands) from producing excess sebum.

Therefore, because salicylic acid is oil-soluble, it can penetrate beneath the skin's surface to remove excess sebum from pores and reduce oil production. This can lead to an improvement in the appearance of pores.

2. Eliminates dead skin and impurities

Salicylic acid is a peeling agent that exfoliates dead skin cells and accelerates cell renewal. Due to its desmolytic properties, it helps remove dead cells from the skin by weakening the bonds between corneocytes (the cells that make up the outer layer of the skin) and prevents the formation of comedones. It is also a gentle exfoliant in the process of unclogging pores.

3. Keeps pores clean and prevents acne

Salicylic acid is a comedolytic ingredient, meaning it prevents the formation of comedones, specifically whiteheads and blackheads, typical of acne. By keeping pores clean, whiteheads and blackheads will not develop from excess oil or dead cells hidden in the skin.

Because it is lipophilic (oil-soluble), salicylic acid can penetrate deep into the pores to prevent acne formation. Also, being an astringent product, salicylic acid reduces the appearance of pores.

4. Calms inflammation

Salicylic acid contains a chemical called salicin, which has analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects. As a result, salicylic acid can soothe irritated and inflamed skin. In people suffering from acne, using salicylic acid-based products helps reduce redness and pain, and for psoriasis patients, this ingredient applied topically helps reduce inflammation.

5. Fights acne bacteria

Bacteria are one of the factors that cause acne. When skin cells, sebum, and hair follicles collect in a "plug" and block pores, the surface becomes infected with bacteria, leading to inflammation. Typically, bacteria thrive in poorly oxygenated areas, i.e., under clogged pores. Salicylic acid exfoliates the pores, allowing fresh air to penetrate the skin and thus creating an oxygenated environment, less friendly to bacteria.

Creams with salicylic acid

How to use salicylic acid?

First, before using salicylic acid-based products, it is recommended to perform a patch test. To check if you are allergic to salicylic acid, apply a small amount of the product to one or two affected areas for three days.

If allergic reactions occur, the product is not recommended for further use. Salicylic acid-based products can be used daily if used according to a specialist doctor's instructions and are well-tolerated by the skin.

The dermatologist can recommend the appropriate form of salicylic acid, as well as the necessary dose, taking into account the skin type and condition.

Salicylic acid is used topically, meaning it should only be applied to the skin. In some situations, the dermatologist may recommend using salicylic acid with an occlusive dressing for better absorption by the skin.

It is also important that salicylic acid-based products are stored at room temperature (away from strong heat sources or freezing), in rooms without humidity and strong light.

The Ivapur range is dedicated to acne-prone skin and contains products specially created for treating acne, with ingredients that have proven effective in alleviating the symptoms of this skin condition:

Can salicylic acid be combined with other cosmetic ingredients?

Using salicylic acid with AHA — The combination of AHA and BHA is frequently used, but the acid concentration must be carefully dosed to avoid an irritating effect. Because alpha-hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid and lactic acid) are low-pH exfoliants, combining them with a beta-hydroxy acid (another low-pH exfoliant) can negatively over-exfoliate the skin, producing severe irritation: redness, dryness, flaking, stinging.

Salicylic acid & retinol — Also, it is not recommended to use salicylic acid and retinol at the same time. Both are ingredients used to treat acne, as they help regenerate skin cells and keep pores clean. However, these substances can dry out the skin, which is why they must be combined with caution.

Salicylic acid & niacinamide — Salicylic acid, however, can be used with niacinamide, working very well together. While niacinamide acts on the skin's surface to reduce sebum, salicylic acid controls and reduces oil production within the pores.

Salicylic acid & hyaluronic acid — Also, salicylic acid can be used in combination with hyaluronic acid. If salicylic acid removes dead cells and excess sebum, which can sometimes lead to skin dryness, hyaluronic acid retains water, thus hydrating the skin.

Salicylic acid uses

Salicylic acid: side effects

Salicylic acid is indicated for oily, combination, or normal skin types and, in general, can be used for topical application in concentrations of up to 2% in skincare products without causing problems.

However, during the first uses, it may cause certain adverse reactions until the skin gets used to the ingredient:

In conclusion, salicylic acid is an ingredient frequently used in skincare products due to its beneficial properties, especially in treating acne. To achieve good results, topical use of salicylic acid for at least six weeks is necessary.

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