The most effective acids for skin care: benefits and how to use
Posted by Ivatherm
Acids are ingredients most frequently used in skincare products for exfoliation. There are two main groups of acids: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA). Both AHAs and BHAs help remove dead cells from the skin's top layer.
All acids used in skincare products act as chemical exfoliants, weakening the bonds between dead skin cells. However, there are some significant differences between them. The most relevant difference is their chemical structure, as this affects how acids interact with the skin.
In addition to the acids in these two main categories (AHA and BHA), there are other acids used in skincare products, which we have included in this article. In this article, discover the most effective acids for the skin, how they work, and how to properly introduce them into your daily routine.
Table of Contents
What are AHA and BHA acids?
There are two classes of acids used in cosmetic products, as well as in dermatological treatments for skin care:
alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA);
beta-hydroxy acids (BHA).
AHAs and BHAs are two types of hydroxy acids, whose primary use is skin exfoliation. They are found in many cosmetic products, from cleansers and moisturizers to masks and scrubs. They are used to treat certain skin conditions, such as acne, as well as to improve skin appearance.
While alpha-hydroxy acids are water-soluble, beta-hydroxy acids are oil-soluble. Unlike AHAs, BHA acids can penetrate deeper into pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum.
Both AHAs and BHAs can reduce inflammation (a key marker of acne, rosacea and other skin problems), diminish the appearance of pores and wrinkles, even out skin tone, eliminate dead cells, and unclog pores to prevent acne breakouts.
AHA acids: what they are, benefits and how to use them
Alpha-hydroxy acids are chemical compounds naturally found in sugarcane, fruits, and milk. These acids are composed of water-soluble molecules, which means they can help maintain optimal skin moisture levels and break down skin cells on the surface (they are, therefore, exfoliants).
Although higher concentrations of AHAs result in more intense exfoliation, the molecules rarely penetrate beyond the outer layers of the skin. This is why AHAs are acids primarily used to improve skin appearance. Alpha-hydroxy acids are mainly used for:
fading pigmentation spots;
diminishing the appearance of enlarged pores;
evening out skin tone;
reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
AHAs work by reducing the concentration of calcium ions in the skin. This promotes the elimination of skin cells on the surface.
Although AHAs are effective and safe for all skin types, people with sensitive skin and extremely dry skin may need time to adjust to these acids, which can be irritating to the skin.
BHA acids: what they are, benefits and how to use them
Beta-hydroxy acids are usually derived from willow and birch bark. Willow bark contains salicin, a compound used to create salicylic acid. BHA acids are made of oil-soluble molecules, so they penetrate much deeper than AHA acids to effectively remove dirt and excess oil that clog pores.
Beta-hydroxy acids are primarily used for:
their antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties;
Beta-hydroxy acids can be used daily, but initially, it is recommended to apply them a few times a week until the skin gets used to them. Although BHA acids do not make the skin sensitive to the sun, compared to AHA acids, it is recommended to use products with sun protection factor every day. This helps prevent sun damage.
AHA and BHA: differences and similarities
Similarities:
Both AHA and BHA acids have an exfoliating effect, so using both types can cause skin dryness and irritation;
Specialists recommend alternating AHA and BHA acids;
AHAs and BHAs have similar benefits. From each ingredient, depending on its concentration, a certain level of exfoliation can be achieved;
Differences:
While AHAs primarily have anti-aging properties, BHAs are mainly used to soothe inflammation and treat acne;
Compared to glycolic acid (which is an alpha-hydroxy acid), salicylic acid (BHA) is less irritating;
Another difference between AHAs and BHAs is that beta-hydroxy acids increase the skin's resistance to UV damage and also have antibacterial effects;
The antibacterial effects of beta-hydroxy acids make them suitable ingredients for products used to treat acne;
AHAs provide a more aggressive exfoliation, which may be more suitable for repairing sun damage and reducing signs of aging;
Also, alpha-hydroxy acids support collagen production;
AHAs are more aggressive, so their use requires caution, as they can cause sun sensitivity.
Types of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA)
Among AHA and BHA acids, the most well-known and used in cosmetic products are glycolic acid and salicylic acid. In addition to these, other types of acids are used in dermatological treatments, which have lower efficacy.
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is the most well-known AHA acid. It is naturally present in certain plants, such as beets and sugarcane. It is a powerful exfoliant, used in treating numerous skin problems. Due to its antimicrobial properties, glycolic acid can help prevent acne breakouts.
It has the smallest molecule of all acids, so it penetrates the skin most deeply, making it one of the most effective acids available.
Glycolic acid is among the ingredients used in Ivatherm products:
Ivapur Gentle Purifying Exfoliant – gently exfoliates layers of dead cells without causing irritation or skin sensitization, prepares the skin for effective application of the care cream, prevents inflammation and gives the complexion a radiant and even appearance.
Cleansing Gel with Glycolic Acid 3% – removes dead cells, eliminates impurities and restores skin radiance without drying it out, provides gentle exfoliation that acts on fine lines. Skin becomes brighter and healthier with each cleanse.
Lactic acid is another alpha-hydroxy acid frequently used in facial skincare products. Among the properties of lactic acid are its anti-aging benefits.
Lactic acid has the second smallest molecule of all acids. It is gentler than glycolic acid and attracts moisture to the skin, thus also acting as a hydrating agent.
Lactic acid is derived from lactose in milk, although it can also come from fruit sugar. Due to its molecular structure, lactic acid is capable of effectively removing dead skin cells while providing moisture to the outer layers. This alpha-hydroxy acid is gentle enough for people with sensitive skin.
Lactic acid is among the ingredients used in Ivatherm products intended for acne treatment:
Ivapur K Cream for oily skin with acne tendency – reduces sebum secretion and inflammation and has excellent antibacterial activity.
Tartaric acid
Though not as well-known, tartaric acid is among the alpha-hydroxy acids used in skincare products. It is extracted from fruits, especially grapes, bananas, and citrus. Tartaric acid shares many properties with glycolic and lactic acid, meaning it effectively removes dead skin cells to improve texture and reduce signs of aging.
In fact, tartaric acid is used in formulations with glycolic and/or lactic acid because it enhances their efficacy.
Malic acid
Malic acid is naturally found in fruits and vegetables, most commonly extracted from apples. Compared to other AHAs, malic acid is not as effective, so it is typically used in combination with other AHA and BHA acids, as well as other hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid. Malic acid gently exfoliates the outer layer of the skin, making the complexion brighter.
Mandelic acid
Mandelic acid is composed of larger molecules, derived from almond extracts. It can be combined with other alpha-hydroxy acids to increase the degree of exfoliation. Used alone, mandelic acid can improve texture and pore size.
Mandelic acid promotes cellular regeneration, which can lead to evening out skin texture. Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, mandelic acid has proven effective in treating melasma. At the same time, mandelic acid has antioxidant properties.
Being a gentle ingredient, it can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Citric acid
As its name suggests, citric acid is extracted from citrus fruits, typically lemon and grapefruit. Its primary purpose is to neutralize the skin's pH level and even out rough areas of the skin. This type of acid is classified as an AHA.
However, although it is classified as an alpha-hydroxy acid, some formulations of citric acid are also beta-hydroxy. Instead of evening out the skin's pH level, this type of citric acid is primarily used to dissolve excess sebum and cleanse dead skin cells from pores.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is the most well-known beta-hydroxy acid. The concentrations in which this acid can be used vary between 0.5 and 5%, depending on the product chosen. It is best known as a treatment for acne, but it can also help soothe inflammation and redness. This is because salicylic acid penetrates deeply into the skin and dissolves sebum that clogs pores, also exfoliating dead skin cells. Furthermore, salicylic acid does not irritate already inflamed skin, as it has anti-inflammatory properties.
Among Ivatherm products containing salicylic acid are:
Other less known types of BHA are beta-hydroxybutyric acid, tropic acid, and tretocanic acid.
Other acids used in skincare products
There are several ingredients frequently used in skincare products that do not fall into either of the hydroxy acid families. These include antioxidants, such as vitamins A, C, and E. These nutrients fight against damage caused by free radicals, which the body produces as a reaction to environmental pressures (stress, pollution, radiation, smoke).
There are also other acids that are not included in the two categories presented (AHA and BHA), among which are azelaic acid, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid.
Azelaic acid – belongs to a group called dicarboxylic acids. Azelaic acid has antibacterial properties, especially against Cutibacterium acnes (a type of bacteria that lives on the skin and contributes to the appearance of acne). Azelaic acid also slows down melanin production, helping to treat various forms of hyperpigmentation.
Ferulic acid – is an antioxidant, naturally found in fruit seeds, vegetables, and nuts. Like all other antioxidants, it combats the damaging effects of free radicals, which are responsible, among other things, for the breakdown of endogenous collagen and the appearance of pigmentation spots. Research has shown that using ferulic acid together with vitamins C and E stabilizes these nutrients and significantly improves sun protection.
Hyaluronic acid – is a humectant ingredient and can retain up to a thousand times its weight in water. One of the properties of hyaluronic acid is that it forms bonds with water, and the result is keeping the skin hydrated.
Choosing the right ingredients for your skin's needs, especially when it comes to acids, is not easy, especially since there are so many options. However, knowing how ingredients work on the skin can help identify the most effective cosmetic products that can be introduced into your skincare routine.
Conținutul IvaStories este creat de echipa Ivatherm, brand romanesc de dermatocosmetice fondat de Dr. Rucsandra Hurezeanu. Produsele Ivatherm sunt formulate cu Apă Termală Herculane și sunt testate dermatologic, recomandate de medici specialiști.
The most effective acids for skin care: benefits and how to use
Acids are ingredients most frequently used in skincare products for exfoliation. There are two main groups of acids: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA). Both AHAs and BHAs help remove dead cells from the skin's top layer.
All acids used in skincare products act as chemical exfoliants, weakening the bonds between dead skin cells. However, there are some significant differences between them. The most relevant difference is their chemical structure, as this affects how acids interact with the skin.
In addition to the acids in these two main categories (AHA and BHA), there are other acids used in skincare products, which we have included in this article. In this article, discover the most effective acids for the skin, how they work, and how to properly introduce them into your daily routine.
Table of Contents
What are AHA and BHA acids?
There are two classes of acids used in cosmetic products, as well as in dermatological treatments for skin care:
AHAs and BHAs are two types of hydroxy acids, whose primary use is skin exfoliation. They are found in many cosmetic products, from cleansers and moisturizers to masks and scrubs. They are used to treat certain skin conditions, such as acne, as well as to improve skin appearance.
While alpha-hydroxy acids are water-soluble, beta-hydroxy acids are oil-soluble. Unlike AHAs, BHA acids can penetrate deeper into pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum.
Both AHAs and BHAs can reduce inflammation (a key marker of acne, rosacea and other skin problems), diminish the appearance of pores and wrinkles, even out skin tone, eliminate dead cells, and unclog pores to prevent acne breakouts.
AHA acids: what they are, benefits and how to use them
Alpha-hydroxy acids are chemical compounds naturally found in sugarcane, fruits, and milk. These acids are composed of water-soluble molecules, which means they can help maintain optimal skin moisture levels and break down skin cells on the surface (they are, therefore, exfoliants).
Although higher concentrations of AHAs result in more intense exfoliation, the molecules rarely penetrate beyond the outer layers of the skin. This is why AHAs are acids primarily used to improve skin appearance. Alpha-hydroxy acids are mainly used for:
AHAs work by reducing the concentration of calcium ions in the skin. This promotes the elimination of skin cells on the surface.
Although AHAs are effective and safe for all skin types, people with sensitive skin and extremely dry skin may need time to adjust to these acids, which can be irritating to the skin.
BHA acids: what they are, benefits and how to use them
Beta-hydroxy acids are usually derived from willow and birch bark. Willow bark contains salicin, a compound used to create salicylic acid. BHA acids are made of oil-soluble molecules, so they penetrate much deeper than AHA acids to effectively remove dirt and excess oil that clog pores.
Beta-hydroxy acids are primarily used for:
Beta-hydroxy acids can be used daily, but initially, it is recommended to apply them a few times a week until the skin gets used to them. Although BHA acids do not make the skin sensitive to the sun, compared to AHA acids, it is recommended to use products with sun protection factor every day. This helps prevent sun damage.
AHA and BHA: differences and similarities
Similarities:
Differences:
Types of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA)
Among AHA and BHA acids, the most well-known and used in cosmetic products are glycolic acid and salicylic acid. In addition to these, other types of acids are used in dermatological treatments, which have lower efficacy.
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is the most well-known AHA acid. It is naturally present in certain plants, such as beets and sugarcane. It is a powerful exfoliant, used in treating numerous skin problems. Due to its antimicrobial properties, glycolic acid can help prevent acne breakouts.
It has the smallest molecule of all acids, so it penetrates the skin most deeply, making it one of the most effective acids available.
Glycolic acid is among the ingredients used in Ivatherm products:
Lactic acid
Lactic acid is another alpha-hydroxy acid frequently used in facial skincare products. Among the properties of lactic acid are its anti-aging benefits.
Lactic acid has the second smallest molecule of all acids. It is gentler than glycolic acid and attracts moisture to the skin, thus also acting as a hydrating agent.
Lactic acid is derived from lactose in milk, although it can also come from fruit sugar. Due to its molecular structure, lactic acid is capable of effectively removing dead skin cells while providing moisture to the outer layers. This alpha-hydroxy acid is gentle enough for people with sensitive skin.
Lactic acid is among the ingredients used in Ivatherm products intended for acne treatment:
Tartaric acid
Though not as well-known, tartaric acid is among the alpha-hydroxy acids used in skincare products. It is extracted from fruits, especially grapes, bananas, and citrus. Tartaric acid shares many properties with glycolic and lactic acid, meaning it effectively removes dead skin cells to improve texture and reduce signs of aging.
In fact, tartaric acid is used in formulations with glycolic and/or lactic acid because it enhances their efficacy.
Malic acid
Malic acid is naturally found in fruits and vegetables, most commonly extracted from apples. Compared to other AHAs, malic acid is not as effective, so it is typically used in combination with other AHA and BHA acids, as well as other hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid. Malic acid gently exfoliates the outer layer of the skin, making the complexion brighter.
Mandelic acid
Mandelic acid is composed of larger molecules, derived from almond extracts. It can be combined with other alpha-hydroxy acids to increase the degree of exfoliation. Used alone, mandelic acid can improve texture and pore size.
Mandelic acid promotes cellular regeneration, which can lead to evening out skin texture. Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, mandelic acid has proven effective in treating melasma. At the same time, mandelic acid has antioxidant properties.
Being a gentle ingredient, it can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Citric acid
As its name suggests, citric acid is extracted from citrus fruits, typically lemon and grapefruit. Its primary purpose is to neutralize the skin's pH level and even out rough areas of the skin. This type of acid is classified as an AHA.
However, although it is classified as an alpha-hydroxy acid, some formulations of citric acid are also beta-hydroxy. Instead of evening out the skin's pH level, this type of citric acid is primarily used to dissolve excess sebum and cleanse dead skin cells from pores.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is the most well-known beta-hydroxy acid. The concentrations in which this acid can be used vary between 0.5 and 5%, depending on the product chosen. It is best known as a treatment for acne, but it can also help soothe inflammation and redness. This is because salicylic acid penetrates deeply into the skin and dissolves sebum that clogs pores, also exfoliating dead skin cells. Furthermore, salicylic acid does not irritate already inflamed skin, as it has anti-inflammatory properties.
Among Ivatherm products containing salicylic acid are:
Other less known types of BHA are beta-hydroxybutyric acid, tropic acid, and tretocanic acid.
Other acids used in skincare products
There are several ingredients frequently used in skincare products that do not fall into either of the hydroxy acid families. These include antioxidants, such as vitamins A, C, and E. These nutrients fight against damage caused by free radicals, which the body produces as a reaction to environmental pressures (stress, pollution, radiation, smoke).
There are also other acids that are not included in the two categories presented (AHA and BHA), among which are azelaic acid, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid.
Choosing the right ingredients for your skin's needs, especially when it comes to acids, is not easy, especially since there are so many options. However, knowing how ingredients work on the skin can help identify the most effective cosmetic products that can be introduced into your skincare routine.
Resources:
https://www.healthline.com/health/aha-vs-bha#how-to-combine-ahas-and-bhas
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/aha-vs-bha#definition
https://www.webmd.com/beauty/aha-bha-skin-exfoliate
https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/face-acids-types-anti-aging#mandelic-acid
https://www.everydayhealth.com/skin-beauty/a-comprehensive-guide-to-using-acids-in-your-skin-care-routine/
https://www.allure.com/story/guide-to-acid-skin-care-ingredients#
https://www.vitacost.com/blog/types-of-acids-in-skincare/
Echipa Ivatherm
Conținutul IvaStories este creat de echipa Ivatherm, brand romanesc de dermatocosmetice fondat de Dr. Rucsandra Hurezeanu. Produsele Ivatherm sunt formulate cu Apă Termală Herculane și sunt testate dermatologic, recomandate de medici specialiști.