What are humectants and what is their role in maintaining skin health?
Posted by Ivatherm
Skin needs hydration to perform its role of protecting the body, and also to remain bright and healthy.
When skin is dry, skin discomfort appears, the risk of fine lines and wrinkles forming is higher, and the symptoms of certain conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis, can worsen.
Moisturizing agents are divided into three categories: occlusives, humectants, and inducers. Humectants are substances that attract water. Among the most well-known humectants are hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
Humectants have numerous benefits for maintaining skin health. Ingredients included in this generation of moisturizing agents, humectants, help retain moisture in the skin, preserve the general properties of products, seal cracks in the skin, and also have an exfoliating effect, removing dead cells.
In general, humectants are suitable for all skin types, due to the range of ingredients that fall under this umbrella. Humectants are found in face and body products, such as serums, creams, cleansers, and lotions.
Contents
What are humectants?
Humectants are hydrophilic and hygroscopic organic compounds, meaning they absorb water from the air or from the deeper layers of the skin. They are classified into three types:
natural humectants;
naturally derived humectants;
synthetic humectants.
Chemically, humectants are hygroscopic substances that form hydrogen bonds with water molecules. This bond helps to hydrate the skin by drawing water from the lower cellular layers.
Humectants are found in many personal care products, such as:
body lotions;
face creams;
eye creams;
lip balms;
cleansers;
hair shampoos;
hair conditioners.
How do humectants work?
All humectants form bonds with water, but some of them have an additional role. Some humectants first break down dead skin cells that clog pores.
Humectants work by drawing water from the dermis (the middle layer of the skin) to the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin). This process increases the moisture level in the stratum corneum, the outermost part of the epidermis.
Humectants also support the removal of dead cells by breaking down the proteins that hold cells together.
Cell regeneration is a natural process by which new skin cells are produced and dead ones are removed. Every day, between 30,000 and 40,000 cells are replaced, but with age, this process slows down. Thus, dead cells are no longer properly eliminated, they accumulate in the stratum corneum (the outer part of the epidermis), and the skin acquires a dull appearance, has a rough texture, and loses its luminosity. In fact, dead cells accumulate when the water content in the stratum corneum falls below 10%.
Once humectants loosen dead cells, they draw moisture from deeper layers of the skin. Humectants can be seen as magnets that attract moisture from the air or from deeper layers of the skin to the surface.
Because humectants attract moisture from both the air and deeper layers of the skin, it is important that cosmetic products used also contain occlusive substances to seal in the water attracted by humectants. This is even more important when atmospheric humidity is low, therefore there is little water in the air.
The type of humectant ingredient that should be added to your daily skin care routine depends on your skin's overall needs.
If the skin is prone to acne, then a product containing salicylic acid can help remove dead cells to prevent acne breakouts, while also providing skin hydration.
Alpha hydroxy acids can also help remove dead skin cells and are effective for all skin types.
How many types of humectants are there?
Humectants work differently and can have properties that make them suitable for certain skin problems. There are three broad classes of humectants: natural, naturally derived, and synthetic.
Among the most well-known synthetic humectants are:
butylene glycol;
urea;
glycerin;
sodium lactate.
Natural humectants serve a dual purpose: they draw moisture to the skin's surface while simultaneously boosting the skin's own hydrating capacity. They achieve this with substances that stimulate water production in the dermis, while also encouraging the growth of new cells in the epidermis.
Some of the most popular natural humectants are:
hyaluronic acid;
Aloe vera;
alpha hydroxy acids;
honey;
seaweed.
What are the most effective and well-known humectants?
While numerous humectants exist, some are more commonly used.
1. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule found naturally in the body, whose production slows with age. For this reason, the skin can become dry and aged.
This substance helps in collagen synthesis and retaining a large capacity of water. Hyaluronic acid can retain a thousand times its weight in water.
Hyaluronic acid is mainly used in anti-aging cosmetic products.
2. Glycerin
Glycerin is a substance found naturally in animal and plant tissues. A large part of the glycerin in make-up products is extracted from soybeans and sugarcane. Glycerin is one of the most effective humectants and also helps maintain the skin's barrier function.
Several studies show that applying glycerin to the skin can gradually improve its suppleness and fine texture.
3. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid, are chemical compounds found naturally in fruits, sugarcane, and milk. In addition to helping maintain an optimal moisture level in the skin, AHAs contribute to the removal of dead skin cells, having exfoliating properties. Glycolic acid comes from sugarcane, lactic acid from milk, and citric acid from citrus fruits.
AHAs are chemical compounds commonly used in anti-aging treatments. Also, due to the fact that they help break down skin cells on the surface, they allow subsequently used moisturizing products (usually creams or serums) to penetrate the skin better.
4. Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), mainly used in the treatment of acne. It is found naturally in willow bark and birch bark, but synthetic versions of this ingredient are also used in skincare products.
Salicylic acid has the ability to deeply cleanse excess sebum from pores and reduce future oil production. This can prevent acne breakouts and help moisturizers penetrate the skin more effectively.
Among Ivatherm brand products containing salicylic acid are:
Ivapur K Cream for oily skin with acne tendency – reduces sebum secretion and inflammation and has excellent antibacterial activity.
5. Aloe vera
Aloe vera is another humectant frequently used in skin care products. Known for its gel content, which is especially effective for treating sunburn and smoothing skin, Aloe vera has anti-inflammatory properties and is effective in treating acne.
What are the benefits of humectants on the skin?
The main role of humectants is to hydrate the skin. By absorbing water, humectants support skin health, thus offering several benefits to the skin.
1. Strengthen the skin barrier
The outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, plays an important role for the entire body, acting as a protective barrier. This slows down the evaporation of water from the skin and protects the body against microbes.
2. Prevent skin dryness
As we age, the risk of skin becoming dry increases. A 2019 review showed that products containing lipophilic humectants reduce skin dryness and pruritus (itching) among people suffering from various skin conditions. A lipophilic humectant is one that manufacturers have dissolved in fats or lipids.
Humectants are meant to act like a sponge and attract water, being able to retain up to a thousand times their weight in water.
3. Support wound healing
Research from 2012 shows that hyaluronic acid accelerates the wound healing process and reduces the appearance of scars. These benefits come from the humectant's actions to promote the formation of new blood vessels and increase fibroblasts, which are connective tissue cells that produce collagen and other fibers.
Humectants also have soothing properties. They can relieve pain caused by irritations.
4. Exfoliate the skin
Some humectants can function as exfoliants and remove dead skin cells to even out moisture levels.
What is the difference between humectants, occlusives, and hydration inducers?
It is said that the best emollients, for effective hydration, should contain all 3 generations of moisturizing agents:
occlusives (first generation) – form a protective film on the skin's surface and seal water inside, represented by paraffin oil (petrolatum) and lanolin;
humectants (second generation) – are hygroscopic (attract and retain water), represented by hyaluronic acid and glycerin;
hydration inducers (third generation) – transport water at the cellular level, providing better hydration even of the stratum corneum (corneum layer), represented by Aquaphyline.
Ivahidra+ Intense Relipidating Balm – closely approaches the ideal emollient profile for very dry and atopic-prone skin. It contains: Aquaphyline, with a strong moisturizing effect, Shea butter, an occlusive agent that contributes to skin hydration and nutrition through vitamins and essential fatty acids, and glycerin, a well-known humectant agent that deeply hydrates and contributes to the barrier function.
When the weather is particularly dry (especially during the winter months), humectants can draw too much water from the dermis and cause skin dryness. This is especially true for synthetic humectants, such as glycerin. To counteract this situation, some moisturizers contain an occlusive agent, which prevents moisture loss by creating a barrier of oil or lipids.
Conclusion
In conclusion, humectants are substances that attract water to the skin, either from the air or from the deeper layers of the skin. Among the most well-known humectant ingredients are hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and alpha-hydroxy acids, which are found in a wide range of personal care products.
Conținutul IvaStories este creat de echipa Ivatherm, brand romanesc de dermatocosmetice fondat de Dr. Rucsandra Hurezeanu. Produsele Ivatherm sunt formulate cu Apă Termală Herculane și sunt testate dermatologic, recomandate de medici specialiști.
What are humectants and what is their role in maintaining skin health?
Skin needs hydration to perform its role of protecting the body, and also to remain bright and healthy.
When skin is dry, skin discomfort appears, the risk of fine lines and wrinkles forming is higher, and the symptoms of certain conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis, can worsen.
Moisturizing agents are divided into three categories: occlusives, humectants, and inducers. Humectants are substances that attract water. Among the most well-known humectants are hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
Humectants have numerous benefits for maintaining skin health. Ingredients included in this generation of moisturizing agents, humectants, help retain moisture in the skin, preserve the general properties of products, seal cracks in the skin, and also have an exfoliating effect, removing dead cells.
In general, humectants are suitable for all skin types, due to the range of ingredients that fall under this umbrella. Humectants are found in face and body products, such as serums, creams, cleansers, and lotions.
Contents
What are humectants?
Humectants are hydrophilic and hygroscopic organic compounds, meaning they absorb water from the air or from the deeper layers of the skin. They are classified into three types:
Chemically, humectants are hygroscopic substances that form hydrogen bonds with water molecules. This bond helps to hydrate the skin by drawing water from the lower cellular layers.
Humectants are found in many personal care products, such as:
How do humectants work?
All humectants form bonds with water, but some of them have an additional role. Some humectants first break down dead skin cells that clog pores.
Humectants work by drawing water from the dermis (the middle layer of the skin) to the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin). This process increases the moisture level in the stratum corneum, the outermost part of the epidermis.
Humectants also support the removal of dead cells by breaking down the proteins that hold cells together.
Cell regeneration is a natural process by which new skin cells are produced and dead ones are removed. Every day, between 30,000 and 40,000 cells are replaced, but with age, this process slows down. Thus, dead cells are no longer properly eliminated, they accumulate in the stratum corneum (the outer part of the epidermis), and the skin acquires a dull appearance, has a rough texture, and loses its luminosity. In fact, dead cells accumulate when the water content in the stratum corneum falls below 10%.
Once humectants loosen dead cells, they draw moisture from deeper layers of the skin. Humectants can be seen as magnets that attract moisture from the air or from deeper layers of the skin to the surface.
Because humectants attract moisture from both the air and deeper layers of the skin, it is important that cosmetic products used also contain occlusive substances to seal in the water attracted by humectants. This is even more important when atmospheric humidity is low, therefore there is little water in the air.
Humectants can be used once or twice a day, in the skin care routine, usually after washing and cleansing the face. They are most often found in the form of moisturizer.
The type of humectant ingredient that should be added to your daily skin care routine depends on your skin's overall needs.
If the skin is prone to acne, then a product containing salicylic acid can help remove dead cells to prevent acne breakouts, while also providing skin hydration.
Alpha hydroxy acids can also help remove dead skin cells and are effective for all skin types.
How many types of humectants are there?
Humectants work differently and can have properties that make them suitable for certain skin problems. There are three broad classes of humectants: natural, naturally derived, and synthetic.
Among the most well-known synthetic humectants are:
Natural humectants serve a dual purpose: they draw moisture to the skin's surface while simultaneously boosting the skin's own hydrating capacity. They achieve this with substances that stimulate water production in the dermis, while also encouraging the growth of new cells in the epidermis.
Some of the most popular natural humectants are:
What are the most effective and well-known humectants?
While numerous humectants exist, some are more commonly used.
1. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule found naturally in the body, whose production slows with age. For this reason, the skin can become dry and aged.
This substance helps in collagen synthesis and retaining a large capacity of water. Hyaluronic acid can retain a thousand times its weight in water.
Hyaluronic acid is mainly used in anti-aging cosmetic products.
2. Glycerin
Glycerin is a substance found naturally in animal and plant tissues. A large part of the glycerin in make-up products is extracted from soybeans and sugarcane. Glycerin is one of the most effective humectants and also helps maintain the skin's barrier function.
Several studies show that applying glycerin to the skin can gradually improve its suppleness and fine texture.
3. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid, are chemical compounds found naturally in fruits, sugarcane, and milk. In addition to helping maintain an optimal moisture level in the skin, AHAs contribute to the removal of dead skin cells, having exfoliating properties. Glycolic acid comes from sugarcane, lactic acid from milk, and citric acid from citrus fruits.
AHAs are chemical compounds commonly used in anti-aging treatments. Also, due to the fact that they help break down skin cells on the surface, they allow subsequently used moisturizing products (usually creams or serums) to penetrate the skin better.
4. Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), mainly used in the treatment of acne. It is found naturally in willow bark and birch bark, but synthetic versions of this ingredient are also used in skincare products.
Salicylic acid has the ability to deeply cleanse excess sebum from pores and reduce future oil production. This can prevent acne breakouts and help moisturizers penetrate the skin more effectively.
Among Ivatherm brand products containing salicylic acid are:
5. Aloe vera
Aloe vera is another humectant frequently used in skin care products. Known for its gel content, which is especially effective for treating sunburn and smoothing skin, Aloe vera has anti-inflammatory properties and is effective in treating acne.
What are the benefits of humectants on the skin?
The main role of humectants is to hydrate the skin. By absorbing water, humectants support skin health, thus offering several benefits to the skin.
1. Strengthen the skin barrier
The outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, plays an important role for the entire body, acting as a protective barrier. This slows down the evaporation of water from the skin and protects the body against microbes.
2. Prevent skin dryness
As we age, the risk of skin becoming dry increases. A 2019 review showed that products containing lipophilic humectants reduce skin dryness and pruritus (itching) among people suffering from various skin conditions. A lipophilic humectant is one that manufacturers have dissolved in fats or lipids.
Humectants are meant to act like a sponge and attract water, being able to retain up to a thousand times their weight in water.
3. Support wound healing
Research from 2012 shows that hyaluronic acid accelerates the wound healing process and reduces the appearance of scars. These benefits come from the humectant's actions to promote the formation of new blood vessels and increase fibroblasts, which are connective tissue cells that produce collagen and other fibers.
Humectants also have soothing properties. They can relieve pain caused by irritations.
4. Exfoliate the skin
Some humectants can function as exfoliants and remove dead skin cells to even out moisture levels.
What is the difference between humectants, occlusives, and hydration inducers?
It is said that the best emollients, for effective hydration, should contain all 3 generations of moisturizing agents:
When the weather is particularly dry (especially during the winter months), humectants can draw too much water from the dermis and cause skin dryness. This is especially true for synthetic humectants, such as glycerin. To counteract this situation, some moisturizers contain an occlusive agent, which prevents moisture loss by creating a barrier of oil or lipids.
Conclusion
In conclusion, humectants are substances that attract water to the skin, either from the air or from the deeper layers of the skin. Among the most well-known humectant ingredients are hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and alpha-hydroxy acids, which are found in a wide range of personal care products.
Resources:
https://www.verywellhealth.com/skin-care-humectants-moisturizers-1069333#
https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/what-is-a-humectant
https://www.healthline.com/health/humectant#definition
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/humectant#vs-emollients-and-occlusives
https://www.skincare.com/product-picks/moisturizers/emollient-vs-humectant-vs-occlusive
https://www.vogue.in/beauty/content/humectants-to-look-for-in-your-next-skin-hydrator
https://www.byrdie.com/humectants-5197898
Echipa Ivatherm
Conținutul IvaStories este creat de echipa Ivatherm, brand romanesc de dermatocosmetice fondat de Dr. Rucsandra Hurezeanu. Produsele Ivatherm sunt formulate cu Apă Termală Herculane și sunt testate dermatologic, recomandate de medici specialiști.